Something
interesting is happening along University
Boulevard in Langley Park, Md., and it has to do
with Indian food. At least four
restaurants-three vegetarian-offer Westerners
and Indians alike samplings of authentic Indian
cooking in atmospheres that fairly pulse with
subcontinental ambiance. One of the newest,
Tiffin the Indian Kitchen, seems almost tropical
with its bamboo and pale greens. And its lunch
buffet is just this side of tropical heaven.
On a recent visit, the crowds had not thinned
even long after lunch-time. For $5.95 ($7.95 on
weekends) customers may sample more than just a
smattering of curries, grills and rice. Tandoori
chicken; chicken masala; vada (fried cutlets of
shredded potatoes and onion); Gobi bhujri (a
creamy vegetable curry); rice; dal; aloo baigan;
and naan (Indian bread) were part of the mix and
appeared in almost unending quantities. Simply
delicious were the tandoori chicken, chopped
into serving pieces and tinted the traditional
reddish hue and slightly soured; and the chicken
masala with its rich but mild sauce.
Curiosity may spark you to try some
from-the-menu appetizers, but don't be fooled
into thinking these are bite-sized goodies
intended to whet, not diminish, your hunger. Be
forewarned that the chaat paper ($3.95) comes as
a generous scoop of cubed potatoes, coriander,
tomato sections and chickpeas stirred with
crisped noodles and crunchy squares of bread the
menu describes as "crisp flour
cookies." Sweetened with a tamarind sauce and
soured slightly with yogurt, this concoction
would serve well as lunch itself.
Actually, the menu itself takes on some of the
lesser-know North and South Indian dishes, such
as lamb palak, or cut-up lamb cooked with
spinach and spices; goat curry; kadai chili
chicken; lasooni kabab, or marinated and cubed
chicken breast cooked in the tandoor; and
Hyderabadi bhaarvan baigan curry, or stuffed
curried eggplant. These move beyond the more
typical offerings that show up on local Indian
restaurant menus. And for the devotee of all
that Gandhi stood for, the vegetarian thali,
called "Gandhiji's Favorite" on the menu, would
probably come as first choice.
Bread choices are not so offbeat and most will
seem familiar to those who love Indian food. One
tip, however, If you like onion kulcha, this
versino is particularly fine grained and tender
and seasoned with onion and fresh
coriander. It's a perfect adjunct to any of the
curries you select.
Sweets are also predictable here, though the
buffet recently offered a custardlike dish for
dessert. Otherwise, find the ice cream;
something called falooda malai kulfi, or Indian
ice cream with rice noodles; gulab jamun and
rasmali garnisheed with grapes.
From most seats you get a clear view into the
glass-walled tandoori room, where a busy-and
hot-cook slaps breads on the walls of the hot
clay oven. This makes for free entertainment
while you work your way through platefuls of
very good Indian eats. |
